where jess ate

When we visited Russ & Daughters last year, we picked up several items from the tiny store and ate our purchases uncomfortably outside in the cold on a vacant park bench. I would’ve happily done it again but earlier this year, Russ & Daughters opened up a cafe.

The iconic Russ & Daughters Appetizing store celebrated their 100 year anniversary this year. And it only took them a century to open up a restaurant!

The cafe is located nearby their store and has similar offerings but in a nicer, more comfortable atmosphere. Just be ready to pay a premium for sitting in.

I loved the space and decor with the gorgeous herringbone floors, retro bar at the front of the restaurant and cozy booths that fill up the back of the space. The decor is very light and airy with an open kitchen situated in the middle of the space complete with a separate fish slicing station.

Mike and I arrived around 10am on a Saturday morning and grabbed one of the last seats. By the time we left, there was a huge crowd waiting by the door. So get here early to beat the rush!

The menu is broken down into noshes (small dishes including latkes and knishes), boards (open faced sandwiches), soups, smoked fish platters ($70-$90), egg dishes (served all day), herring, salads and dessert (including blintzes and babka French toast). You can also splurge on some caviar which starts at $105 for 50 grams to $1,970 for 500 grams of Osetra Gueldenstaedtii. And as far as drinks go, they offer a selection of drinks cocktails, wine, beer, house made sodas and egg creams.

Having had a little taste of Russ & Daughters’ Chopped Liver – matzo, pickled red onion ($9) last year, we had to get an order of this. They make the most incredible chopped liver and it was just as good as I remembered. I never would’ve thought of pairing it with pickled red onions but it worked really well. The texture had a nice creaminess to it and while quite rich, we managed to lick the jar clean. SO good!

Another familiar dish was the Super Heebster – whitefish & baked salmon salad, wasabi-infused fish roe, horseradish dill cream cheese, bagel toast ($10). Last year, we had this in the form of a bagel sandwich at the shop. However, in the cafe it’s offered as an open faced sandwich. Like the chopped liver, the flavour combination was just as good as I remembered. Mike mentioned that he preferred it this way over the sandwich as you get to taste more of the filling and I have to agree – I’m not a big fan of their bagels anyway.

Up next was the Holland Herring – sashimi-like with cornichons, sweet onion ($8). The menu doesn’t lie. It was indeed sashimi-like and very delicate which I loved. Oh, and you’ve gotta get some of that sweet onion in each bite. Delish!

The last item we shared was the Shtetl Board – smoked sable, goat cream cheese, bagel, tomato, onion, capers ($18). It comes with your choice of bagel – we chose an everything bagel. As I’ve already mentioned, I’m not a huge fan of their bagels as I find them on the hard side.

Anyway, when you order a board, you’re essentially building your own sandwich as all the different components are laid out nicely on a wooden board.

I was a little hesitant about ordering this board since it came with goat cheese cream cheese (but I really wanted the smoked sablefish combo!). Sometimes goat cheese can be too overpowering for me – on its own the cream cheese was quite strong but when you spread it onto a bagel, it’s a little more subtle (although you definitely know its there).

The delicate slices of smoked sablefish were incredible and left us wanting more. I found it really expensive as the board cost $18 yet it only came with three thin slices of fish.

Overall, we had an enjoyable experience at Russ & Daughters Cafe. You get the same great offerings in a great new space – you actually have a place to sit! But like I said, the comfort comes at a price. Be ready to pay a big premium!

At a glance:

• The Russ & Daughters Appetizing store celebrated its 100 year anniversary this year
• Specializing in cured fish and other Jewish favourites
• The cafe opened up in May 2014
• Similar offerings to their store but be prepared to pay a premium
• Love the space; very light, airy and clean; retro yet modern decor
• No reservations; get here early on weekends to beat the rush

Ratings (out of 5):

• Food: 4 stars
• Service: 3 stars
• Atmosphere: 4 stars